She wants to hear wine pouring. She wants to taste change. She wants pride to roar through the kitchen till it shines like straw, she wants lean to replace tradition. Ham knocks in the pot, nothing but bones, each with its bracelet of flesh. The house stinks like a zoo in summer, while upstairs her man sleeps on. Robe slung over her arm and the cradled hymnal, she pauses, remembers her mother in a slip lost in blues, and those collards, wild-eared, singing.