I can tell you nothing about its relatives or the uses it had in China. For us, it simply grew at the end of the garden— a ruby-red wand for the sugar bin. My mother chopped it into pieces and made pies, cakes and sauces. She gave it in armfuls to her friends, Just last week, I watched her bend and pull out a stalk with both hands, then pass it—like a torch—on to me.