She’s a wise woman, from the northern land of volcanoes — tells me she can understand the language of crows, their movements; knows what it means when they follow me like that as we leave the Black Sea. Not always good. ‘Now look, they’re not coming at you head on but at an angle, from the side diagonally — watch the slant of their dive. So there’s hope,’ she says — ‘you’ll see your mother again before she dies.’